Top Things to do on the Ring of Kerry
Hiking the Dingle Way: History and geology at their best
Top Things to do on the Ring of Kerry
Hiking the Dingle Way: History and geology at their best
By Judith Kimenai, Past Guest
“Judith, I’m not sure if I can do this… My hip is killing me. I may have to give up hiking like this…” It is day 2 on the Dingle Way with my hiking buddy, Annalies.
Since our late twenties, we’ve hiked hundreds of miles on foot. Just the two of us and our backpacks, inseparable for days on end. But, will we be able to accomplish hiking the Dingle Way, almost 15 years later?
Getting ready for our Dingle Way Hike
It is October when Annalies and I reconnect after not having seen each other for more than a year. Reminiscing about our previous trips, it doesn’t take long for us to feel that travel bug taking over. We finished our last hike together seven years ago, so we decided it was time to get out there again. Annalies, who lives in The Netherlands, was more than happy to travel to the southwest of Ireland. I was already in Ireland, as I moved to the Beara Peninsula three years ago.
Having not yet ventured into the captivating Dingle Peninsula, we chose the Self-Guided Dingle Way Hike as our next thrilling hiking adventure. In the past, we eagerly planned walks like this on our own. We enjoyed comparing B&Bs and determining the perfect daily mileage for us. This year felt different. With both of us swamped at work, it took less than five minutes to agree on a new plan: we would enlist the help of an Ireland travel agency!
Ireland Walk Hike Bike: All we needed and more
The Tralee-based tour operator Ireland Walk Hike Bike offers a range of itineraries for guided and self-guided hikes on the Dingle Way. Their service was top-notch and highly professional. However, all their self-guided itineraries include taxi transfers, which was not what we were looking for. We wanted to walk the entire route, including the stretches of paved roads which the agency suggests skipping. Leaving out parts of a long-distance trail felt like cheating to us. So, we emailed the company to request a personalised plan.
We had eight days to traverse the full length of the Dingle Peninsula, kicking off in Tralee and wrapping up in Camp. Although we wouldn’t have time for a rest day, we didn’t mind too much. We aimed to cover an ambitious 12.5 miles per day, pushing beyond the typical 9 to 10 miles recommended by Ireland Walk Hike Bike. For nostalgia’s sake, we chose to carry our own luggage, just like we did a decade ago. We were up for the challenge and knew we’d have to pack light!
Communication is key when planning Ireland Self-Guided Hikes
On trips like these, clear communication is crucial, and Ireland Walk Hike Bike excels in that regard. We received several detailed pre-departure emails providing a comprehensive overview of what to expect. One of the emails included a link to an incredibly handy app. After entering our personalized trip ID, our day-by-day hiking itinerary appeared in an instant. Also included within the App were detailed route notes, directions to bed and breakfasts, maps with points of interest, recommendations for dining and drinking, emergency contact numbers and alternative plans for bad weather. It was reassuring to know that we were in such capable hands.
Bye-bye, busy life! Hello Dingle Way Hiking Adventure!
Our departure day arrived, and a local bus dropped us off in the heart of Tralee town center. We had chosen the warmest day of the year so far to kick off our Dingle self-guided hike.
The city buzz was pleasant, but we couldn’t wait to immerse ourselves in Ireland’s serene nature. Only the profound stillness of the hills could completely erase the noise and bustle of our busy lives back home.
Soon enough, we left Tralee behind, passing the picturesque Blennerville windmill as we climbed the slopes of the Slieve Mish Mountains. From our vantage point, we looked down on the glistening waters of Tralee Bay and caught a distant glimpse of the city’s contours. The blue skies and relentless sun were our steadfast companions throughout the day.
It felt fantastic to be back on the Dingle Way hiking trails. As with our previous long-distance hikes, we had packed our own lunches—simple but satisfying, consisting of multigrain wraps generously spread with cream cheese.
For a touch of indulgence, I had stashed a small jar of Nutella in my backpack. Packing light? Not quite… but let’s be honest, nothing compares to the rich, sweet taste of Nutella after a long, challenging walk!
We arrived in Camp around 3 p.m. After enjoying a well-deserved cold drink and a delicious pub meal, we headed to our cozy B&B across the street, where a beautifully spacious room awaited us.
Ireland Walk Hike Bike to the rescue
Our second day of walking brought an unexpected heatwave, a rare treat for Ireland, but we didn’t let it dampen our spirits. We were eagerly looking forward to reaching Inch Beach by noon.
As we marveled in silence at the stunning dunes stretching beside the beach, Annalies suddenly dropped a bombshell: “Judith, I’m not sure I can continue… My hip is in agony. I might need to rethink this hiking plan…”
Alarmed, I pressed her for more details. She revealed she was contemplating arranging luggage transport. “Do you think Ireland Walk Hike Bike can still sort this out for us?” she asked. “There’s only one way to find out,” I responded.
We quickly called the company to discuss our options. The customer service representative was incredibly efficient, and by the time we reached Annascaul about an hour later, everything was set up. All that remained was to organize our bags!
To Dingle and beyond
Feeling a couple of pounds lighter, we felt like we were flying the next morning. Despite mostly road walking, we thoroughly enjoyed the day. The rolling hills provided stunning scenery, and the cooler temperatures were a welcome relief. Walking was so much easier without battling the heat.
After 15.5 miles, we arrived in the lively tourist town of Dingle. Our B&B, situated on the outskirts, offered a picturesque view of Dingle Harbour. A short five-minute walk led us to a plethora of bustling pubs. Fortunately, we found a charming spot to replenish our energy. This was not only great news for our taste buds but also for our weary bodies. Our itinerary revealed that another big day awaited us: a 16-mile hike to Dunquin.
Back into history along the Dingle Way
Hiking to the shoulder of Mount Brandon
The next day, we made our way to Cuas, a small settlement at the foot of Mount Brandon, the highest mountain in Dingle. Along the way, we began mentally preparing for the biggest challenge of the week. The next day, we would be climbing to the shoulder of Mount Brandon, at an altitude of 2,180 feet.
The altitude itself wasn’t our biggest concern, but the conditions of the climb were. Although the path was well-marked, finding it in the thick fog common in this area could be tricky. Moreover, just northwest of the path, there was a 1,450-foot cliff drop into the sea.
That evening, the weather forecast indicated less-than-ideal conditions for the climb, with even a small chance of afternoon thunderstorms.
After dinner, back in our room, I did some calculations. If we started early, we could beat the bad weather for most of our walk. By the time the weather changed, we would likely have descended back to sea level.
Hiking the Dingle Way in Relentless Rain
In the morning, the weather didn’t look too bad. The clouds hovered only over the summit of Mount Brandon and seemed fairly stable. The forecast still indicated that the bad weather would hold off for a few more hours. We decided to go for it and left the inn as early as possible.
Annalies and I made our way to the pass at a steady pace. Well before noon, we arrived at the saddle, which was shrouded in clouds. Fortunately, we could still make out the walking trail without much difficulty.
We celebrated reaching the highest point with a delightful German couple, Kristiana and Helmut. However, the wind was strong, so we kept our celebrations brief.
We were relieved to find that the descent had been well-maintained. A long path of stepping stones made the steep way down much easier than it used to be. Just a few years ago, hikers had to navigate slippery and uneven boglands in this challenging section.
By the time the bad weather finally rolled in, we were nearly at sea level. However, the rain was relentless, pouring down for a solid 15 minutes. Soaked to the bone, we found refuge in a small pub in the village of Brendan. Their kitchen was closed, but they offered toasties. Yes, please!
From the pub, it was only an hour to our B&B in Cloghane. We felt truly blessed as we indulged in a hot shower and sank into a soft, clean bed.
Sunshine, sand and steady speed
The last two days of our Dingle Way hiking adventure were spent mostly on beautiful beaches. Surrounded by sand and sunshine, we steadily made our way to the finish line. Walking on flat terrain had never been my forte, but Annalies was in her element.
We caught up with our new German friends and continued our journey together. Enjoying each other’s company, we took our time examining the treasures of the sea. We even discovered a gigantic crab!
A day and a half later, we arrived back in Camp which marked the end of our trip. We were delighted to have completed a wonderful multi-day Dingle Way hike together.
We celebrated with hot chocolate and some well-deserved calories at a local cafe. While munching away, we discussed our next destination. One thing was as clear as the sky: we certainly wouldn’t wait another seven years for our next adventure!
The added value of an organized Ireland hiking tour
Another thing we knew for certain was that we would utilize the excellent services of Ireland Walk Hike Bike again. Here’s why:
- The people in this company possessed an enormous amount of local knowledge.
- With the IWHB app, we quickly accessed route notes, alternative routes, emergency contacts, and points of interest.
- Problem-solving was their middle name!
- They were an extremely friendly team always striving for the best for their clients.
- Their website offered endless options for hiking trips, whether you were looking for a self-guided tour or preferred to walk with a guide.
If you’re interested in hiking the Dingle Way yourself, I can highly recommend booking one of the Dingle Way itineraries with Ireland Walk Hike Bike.
As I mentioned before: these folks had our backs. All we needed to do was put one foot in front of the other and enjoy the stunning scenery!
Click to view Ireland Walk Hike Bike’s Self-Guided Hiking Tours and start planning your own incredible hiking adventure in Ireland!